Trip to Manali and New Delhi

Since I had a month's time between quitting my job and joining college, I decided to put a trip, all by myself. The question was where, initially it was a choice between Rajasthan and Manali. Finally, given the weather in Rajasthan during May - June, decided that I would there later, since Indore is closer to Rajasthan.

Packed very light, with just some clothes, and the essentials - camera, walkman, the absolutely essential Lonely Planet and few books. Had to stop over first at Hubli for couple of days. Took the sleeper class in the Karnataka Express heading to New Delhi. The journey took exactly a day and a half. Thoroughly enjoyed the trip onwards, despite fears by many people, regarding the heat. For the return journey, tried the Rajdhani for the first time.

Photos of the trip are here.

The first of my travel companions on the train, was a group of young fellows who were heading to Khandwa. Two 21 yr old Muslims, who were both getting married the next week. They were quite friendly, freely chatting, inquiring where I was headed, and how old I was. When I answered '25', their immediate shocked response was "Aur abhi tak ek bhi biwi nahi ? (not even one wife so far?)". The conversation went on to comparing our audio players, and telling me to be careful of my possessions once we left Belgaum, something to do with how "once we leave South India, you can't trust anyone." :)

There was a also a Army driver who was his way to Ladakh. Once he knew that I was on my way to Manali, out came all the stories of the experiences he had had in the mountains. From the time when he was stranded in an avalanche for four days, to when he said he was tired or that he wished to go home (he was from Haveri), his superiors immediately called him "desh ka gaddar". The most shocking bit of info was that how often jeeps fell into the cliffs and noone ever bothered recovering the bodies, since its too difficult.

The most interesting person I met was this person - B.V.Nalkar, who stayed quiet all most of the journey. He was a painter who specialised in painting images of ruins. He was traveling for a joint exhibition to New Delhi and told me all the museums and hotels that his paintings could be seen at. He was not carrying any of his artworks, but he showed me photographs on his camera. He then spoke to me for long on Indian art (of which I have little knowledge), on the working between a sponsor(of the exhibition) and the artist, and the business of it all. Fascinating stuff.

the famous Thumbs Up mountain.

Reached Delhi early Wednesday morning, booked a ticket to Manali through HPTDC. I have great confidence in state run transport agencies. Also, on the dangerous routes uphill to Manali , I would really not take chances with a private bus operator, whatever be the cost.

Kulu Valley

Once I reached Manali almost at lunchtime the next day, I first headed out to the Lonely Planet pick restaurant - Chopsticks. A nice little Tibetan joint, short walk ahead of the bus stand, serving some excellent (reasonably priced) food. Then headed out to Temple of Hadimba(Bhim's wife) and the tree worshiped as Ghatotkach. I had come at a time, when the Dhungri Festival had been completed a few weeks back, where there animal sacrifices held, and the skulls of the animals are then hung on the temple walls. On the Ghatotkach Tree, you find even more interesting things - from rams' skulls / horns, to knives to metal miniature houses.

Hadimba Temple

Ghatotkach Tree

Trekked to a nearby village - Vashisht , which had yet another excellent restaurant -Rainbow Cafe- serving the best momos I have ever tasted. A word of caution , the owner is a bit too helpful- as are many people in and around Manali - offering you hashish, without much hesitation. :) This is apparently the reason for high number of foreign tourists, especially Israelis. On the way back, I saw Cannabis growing on the side of the road. Marijuana, dude. On the side of the road, not in an enclosed farm. On the side of the road. And I am Not making this up.

Vashisht is a great place to go to for backpackers. Its a small less crowded with honeymooning couples, and shops selling shawls. I fortunately got the last room available in this nice homely place called Jungle Bungalow, in Old Manali. There's nothing 'bungalow' about it, but clean room, clean bathroom with hot water for Rs.100. This is situated on the hillside , with views of the snow capped mountains on one side. There are many such budget hotels, even some that have still not made it to the Lonely Planet. One other important point, its amazing how most hotels here prepare some excellent steaks, and its very important given that you eventually run out of options in Tibetan cuisine.

The next day, was a trip to Rohtang Pass, 13000 feet. This was the best part of the trip. The journery up to the pass takes around 5 hours, given that you need to stop to pick up your snow suits(on rent), lunch, stops at few glaciers, etc. The route to the top is absolutely breathtaking - any direction you look, the view is picture perfect. Of course there were times, when I thought I would never make it back, with the twists and turns and the driver just about managing to keep us on the road.

Once you get to the top, you are awestruck by how beautiful it is (and the that you have reached 13000 feet) , but also how snow looks pure white from far, but in reality it is quite muddy. But what the hell, it is snow. There were all sorts of rides offered- motor sledges, yaks, pony rides but I chose the one I came for - skiing. This is easily the most deceiving sport (along with table tennis), definitely is not as easy as it looks. Skiied, or walked on skis more like it, to the place they call Zero Point. This place is less crowded, than the pass and has fantastic views.

Zero Point

Last day at Manali, was a bit of shopping, and more of late mornings. Among my reads during the trip were two excellent random picks - my first attempt at a Bill Bryson- Walk in the woods, an excellent book on trekking or rather the comic side of it, good enough to tempt me to get the other books by him; and the beautifully written - Sun After Dark, by Pico Iyer, with the most interesting articles on Leonard Cohen and Dalai Lama. The book that disappointed me a little, was History of Violence- this was a graphic novel that I had been wanting to read for a longtime especially after the favourable reviews that the movie got.

Last two days of my trip was spent at Delhi, staying with a friend. Delhi had always been a place where I have come for just a day or two before,on work so I have never really got to get around the place too much, except the pointless Delhi Haat and the excellent restaurant - Big Chill in Khan Market. This time however, had a real good visit of CP, Chandi Chowk, Majnu-Ka-Tila, etc.

All in all, it was a fantastic trip, within the right budget (considering the unemployed status), and I visited places I have never thought of visiting a few months back.
I skied. I trekked. I ate. Traveled places. I enjoyed myself. I relaxed. Was fun.